RED SEA, BLUE WATER

The Coast

The narrow strip of water between the Arabian Peninsula and Africa, known to the world as the Red Sea, is now acknowledged as being one of the world's greatest diving destinations, easily comparable with the Bahamas and the Great Barrier Reef.  With its fantastically coloured coral reefs, its equally kaleidoscopic tropical fish and deserted beaches, this is a wonderful place to learn to snorkel or scuba dive, or just to get away from the world and relax in clear waters that are a perfect temperature most of the year.   Not only is there an abundance of extremely unpopulated, get-away-from-it-all-perfect shoreline, but there are modern resorts where you can organize all kinds of sports and activities such as fishing for blue water-species.  If you want bright lights, with all the attendant urban delights of shopping, fine-dining and being spoilt in a luxury hotel, there’s the kingdom’s second city, Jeddah.

The City of Jeddah

Located more or less halfway along Saudi Arabia’s west coast, and with a population of over two million, Jeddah is a bustling metropolitan centre of enormous shopping malls, some amazing modern architecture, and a very interesting old town - Al Bilad.  Not to mention a pleasant promenade (kournaish) of around 30km long, which attracts thousands of people wanting to enjoy its cafes, green areas and fresh sea air.  This can get rather crowded on weekend evenings, and so the best time to take a stroll along the extensive seafront is on weekday evenings. 

Not far away to the north is Obhur Creek, a favourite destination for those keen on water sports, and further north again is a plethora of private beaches.  On many of these, which cater mainly for expats, the usual Saudi social rules don’t really apply, and so you can wear whatever you wish - within reason, of course!  Swimming, sailing, jet-skiing, diving, snorkelling, and just about any other water sport you can think of, are all available here. 

Because the sea will probably be a factor in planning most trips to Jeddah, the best time to visit is between November and April.  While the temperature is still very pleasant (daytime range of 24-32^oC) during those months, the humidity is lower and the Red Sea coast is a lot more attractive than the Gulf coast, which is quite a bit colder in winter due to its shallow depth. 

80km east of Jeddah is the Holy City of Makkah, known of course to the world as the holiest shrine in Islam, where the Kabah is situated.  Non-Muslims, however, are strictly forbidden from entering the city, and if travelling between Jeddah and Taif/Riyadh, they must take the red-signposted non-Muslim detour.  The question has been often asked: what would happen if a non-Muslim actually wandered into the city?  In theory, he could be arrested, but in practice he would most likely be escorted by the police to the city limits.  Indeed, this would be unlikely to happen in the first place, because there are checkpoints on all the main roads into the city, at which the police ask for ID papers.  Muslim and non-Muslim expats will have different Iqamas (residence permit), so the police will know immediately whether you are a Muslim or not.  If you are on the wrong road, they will politely ask you to turn back.

I wandered by mistake once into the also-forbidden – ‘haraam’ -  city of Madinah, where it is less vigilantly patrolled, and on realising my mistake I asked at a petrol station how to get back out.  A very friendly gentleman pointed the way, and when I apologized, he assured me that because it was obviously a genuine mistake, no-one would be offended.  Irrespective of consequences, non-Muslims should show respect to their Saudi hosts, and make a genuine effort to avoid entering the Holy Cities.

To reach Jeddah from Riyadh or Dammam, there are frequent flights from both cities.  This is the recommended way of getting there unless you have lots of time, as the drive takes nine and twelve hours respectively. 

Yanbu

This coastal city, three hours’ drive north of Jeddah (and much quieter than its large southern neighbour) and boasting crystal clear water, has become, in recent years, a recognized diving centre and beach resort.  It is also renowned for its fishing.  Charter boats operating from the harbour at Yanbu al Sinayah are readily available for diving excursions, and also provide deep-sea access for tropical species such as Grouper, Barracuda, Sailfish, Dorado, Bonita and Yellowfin Tuna. 

When I last visited a few years ago, the best hotels in town were the Radisson SAS and Holiday Inn, both worth visiting for their sumptuous evening buffets even if you are not staying there.  Now, I believe, many new hotels have been built along the seafront, and Yanbu has become one of the kingdom’s biggest resorts.  

There are regular flights from Jeddah and Riyadh to Yanbu, which can also be reached by a nine-hour drive from Riyadh along an excellent highway via Madinah.  When entering the city from the south, do not be put off by the sight of the refinery.  You will soon be past it, and as it is downwind of all the attractions, it will not be a problem.  In any event, the beaches you will want to visit are around 30km further up the coast, past the old town, Yanbu Al Bahr.

Jizan

This coastal city in the extreme south-west of the country, with its tropical climate, enjoys year-round warmth, and indeed, is ranked one of the hottest cities in the world – literally, that is!  While there isn’t very much of interest for tourists within the city itself, it makes for a pleasant detour for those visiting the south of Asir (Abha).  It is also the jumping-off point for Farasan Islands, a group of coral islands 40km to the northwest, where ancient ruins, protected species, spectacular coral reefs and pristine beaches can all be found. 

There are a number of hotels on the main island, Farasan.   Ninety minute access by fast ferry boat is free, and leaves Jizan port twice daily at 07.00 and 15.00.  There are also some private Felukas, which cost around SR300 for private hire and typically accommodate up to six people.

Getting to Jizan is a long drive. The best way is down the coast from Jeddah, and via Wadi Dawassir, Abha and Najran from Riyadh/Eastern Province.  There are, however, regular flights from both Jeddah and Riyadh.