MOUNTAIN & DESERT

The Desert

There is a lot of desert in Saudi Arabia but it is anything but flat and featureless all over.  It is so in many places of course, and the desert to be seen from the Riyadh-Dammam highway has a particularly grim look.  This is not helped by the abundance of truck repair garages, disused sheds, piles of rusting metal and heaps of old tyres, all of which contrive to give the place the appearance of the set for a remake of Mad Max. 

That is not to say that there is no interesting desert near Riyadh; there is, and the best way to get to see it is to make some local Saudi friends.  Many Saudis, keen to return to their roots, love going out into the desert for picnics and, once you befriend some of them, you are sure to be invited along at some point. They are, in fact, a hospitable people who are flattered when foreigners show a genuine interest in learning something about their country and experiencing their culture. 

Another way to get out there is to join the Hash House Harriers, who organize regular weekend trips in the desert, for walking and running.  http://www.hasher.net/gulfhash2.htm  If physical exertion is not your thing - and in temperatures of 40 degrees or more it is understandable why it might not be - the Riyadh Rovers tend to favour a more vehicle-based approach!  Even if you don’t have your own 4x4, don’t worry.  Plenty of the members do have such vehicles, and are usually glad of some extra company.  Their website is members only, but they have ads posted in most of the compounds.  There is one aspect to both groups with which I strongly disagree: membership is, as a rule, closed to Saudis.  This is an issue with which I will deal in a later blog.  

The eastern part of the country is mostly flat or very low-lying.  About 300 km west of Riyadh, however, a big change is noticeable, and the further west one goes, the more spectacular the desert scenery becomes.  By the time one reaches Taif, Hail or Madinah, some magnificent mountainous terrain can be seen, and this much more faithfully represents the true romantic image of Arabia. 

On the other hand, the classic desert vista of huge rippled sand dunes can best be seen in the Rub Al Khali (Arabic for Empty Quarter) in the southern part of the kingdom.  This is the largest sand desert in the world, with rippling sand dunes - some as high as 200m - stretching 700km across an area between Yemen and the UAE.  Crossing this expanse, where summer temperatures are often in excess of 50⁰C, in a 4x4 convoy is one of the world’s great adventures, but it is a trip which requires serious planning, and should not in any circumstances be undertaken alone, i.e. in a single vehicle.  Typically, Rub Al Khali convoys consist of four or more specially adapted vehicles, with a complement of full camping and desert gear onboard. 

Indeed, any off-road trips in Saudi Arabia should only be attempted in a 4x4, and essential gear would include a compass (even if you have GPS, a manual compass should also be carried), relevant maps, a shovel, sufficient jerry-cans of spare fuel, copious quantities of water (at least four litres per person per day), a few old mats (in case you get bogged down in sand) and, during the summer months especially, a fairly large-sized awning.   This is in addition to the usual camping gear. 

Lots of camels can be seen in the desert, of course; less evident but out there nonetheless are gazelle, desert Oryx, hyenas (quite dangerous to get too close to) and desert foxes.  Hoopoe larks and various eagles can be seen flying in the Hejaz region.   Also to be seen are different kinds of lizard and some very large beetles e.g. scarabs, and felt rather than seen if you are not careful, are scorpions and snakes, especially sand vipers.

All in all, the desert is one of the kingdom’s most compelling attractions.  The vast expanse of emptiness, the deep blue sky, the billion-starred sparkling nights, the exquisite red rock formations of the Hejaz contrasting vividly with the emerald oases, and the rich underworld of wildlife for those who seek it, all combine to create one of the world’s most wildly magnificent environments.  Small wonder that the Saudis, despite their urban trappings, yearn to return at every opportunity to a way of life that has remained unchanged since biblical times.    

The Asir Mountains

This long mountain range which runs for two thirds the length of western Saudi Arabia is a natural attraction well worth visiting for its breath-taking scenery, abundant wildlife, unique village architecture and cool, refreshing climate.  The highest point in the kingdom, Mount Sawdah, lies at the southern end of the chain, near the town of Abha and the Yemen border. 

A drive that I strongly recommend is south along the ridge from Taif (as a starting point) to Al Baha via Misan (three hours without stops).  From there, you can either continue along the high road to Abha (another three hours) or drop down the narrow escarpment road to Numrah, south along the Tihama Plain towards Jizan and then back up the southern escarpment road to Abha.  Along the way expect to see lots of baboons who will happily pose for photos!  Don't get too close though, as they are not always as friendly as they seem. 

East of Abha can be found the pleasant town of Khamis Mushayt, and further east again is the extremely picturesque and unusually green area of Najran, with its regional capital of the same name.  From Najran, you can make the return trip to Riyadh or the Eastern Province, through Wadi Dawassir.  A detour east from there would leave you in Sharourah, on the edge of the Rub Al Khali (see The Desert, above). Unless you like extreme heat and want a very quick suntan, I would not recommend this diversion!

Touring Asir cannot be done in a weekend, but it is an excellent choice for a one- or two-week holiday in-kingdom. 

The Mountain City of Taif & Surrounding Area

This area alone, approx 160km east of Jeddah, has many attractions: Al Hada Nature Reserve, the traditional village of Al Shafa, Rawdaf Park & Zoo, the ancient Okaz Souk and the even more ancient dam (over 2,000 years old) of Saad Samallaghi.  On the way there, coming from Riyadh, are the 'Lost Birqats' (wells) which were built by Queen Zubaida during the 11^th century for pilgrims travelling to Makkah.  The old souk in the centre of Taif is one of the most authentic in Arabia and is full of the sights, sounds and smells of frankincense and oud that one would expect.  For a really authentic atmosphere, this is best visited in the evenings.  Because of the town’s 1800m altitude, Taif’s climate is pleasant most of the year, and indeed freezing temperatures are a distinct possibility for a very short period in the middle of winter.  Don’t bother taking the skis, however!

ARABIAN DELIGHTS

Saudi Arabia is one of the most misunderstood countries on Earth (see my previous posting).  Not only is very little known outside the country, but even within, many foreigners living there have major misconceptions.  One of these is that there are virtually no tourist attractions, whether natural, historical or man-made, in the kingdom. 

Such expats - some of whom have been there for years or even decades - complain about there being nothing to do, alluding at length to the endless flat desert outside of their compounds, broken only by an occasional oil-well or Bedouin encampment.  It is almost like pre-Columbine Europe’s perception of the ocean: empty and endless, and if you crossed it far enough you would eventually fall off the edge.  

The perception of Saudi Arabia as a place of interminable flatness, with nothing of interest to see or do, is about as valid as the flat-earth view, and one of the great tragedies of expat life in KSA is that so many people spend years in the kingdom complaining about how bored they are, without the slightest awareness its many attractions. 

There are a couple of reasons for this misconception.  Firstly, most expats, particularly western expats, tend to be concentrated in the eastern part of the country where the desert is indeed flat and featureless for many hundreds of kilometres, and it is a fact that most of the really interesting places tend to be in the western part of the country. 

Then, there is the ‘boredom culture’, a sort of inherited assumption that because it is Saudi Arabia (still seen by many as a ‘hardship posting’), there just cannot be anything interesting to see or do!  There is even a lack of awareness among many Saudis themselves of the wealth of attractions in their own country.  I recall, for example, taking a couple of friends of ours from Riyadh to Madain Saleh.  Mohammad, who is Saudi, was amazed at the historical, archaeological and natural wonders to be seen there, and exclaimed, “Wow, are we still in Saudi Arabia?  I never realized this beauty was here in my own country”.  

The list of attractions that will appear over the next few postings, is neither detailed nor exhaustive, but should give you a few places to think about visiting for starters.  All the places mentioned can easily be Googled, with a number of websites between them providing all the information you could want.

The Burqah, the Burger & the Blackberry

Today’s first-time visitor to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia – or KSA, as it is often known – could be completely forgiven for being confused at the kaleidoscopic canvas that greets him.  He will see a profusion of white mosques topped with green minarets, intermingled with glass malls crowned with the familiar orange M’s of fast-food.  What is real?  What is fantasy?

The lucky visitor, at least, will get the opportunity to judge for himself.  Most folks do not. Saudi Arabia is still one of the most closed-off, secretive countries in the world, and until the oil boom, the country was virtually shut to outsiders (apart from the closely monitored pilgrims to the Holy Cities).  Since then, the hordes of expatriate workers going there to partake in the oil bonanza have still had to go through consular hoops just to obtain a work- or business-visa.

Tourist visas are a new phenomenon.  In 2002, the country passed a law allowing non-Muslim tourists to get visas to travel in official groups, and subject to strict conditions such as being accompanied by a tour-guide at all times.

This writer has been extremely fortunate to have spent a number of years working and living in this fascinating place, with all its idiosyncrasies and ambiguities.

Even in this age of instant global communications and technology, Saudi Arabia is a land which remains strange and aloof to the western world.   It doesn’t exactly feature on lifestyle channels where people talk about food, fashion, vacations and homes in the sun. Sure, we hear about it from time on time on lofty news channels, but usually through a report on some terrorist atrocity, or perhaps another increase in oil prices.  Occasionally, a reporter goes there to do a documentary on lack of female equality.  In other words, we rarely hear anything good!

And then, of course, we have our own images:  vast expanses of baking sand punctuated by ugly refineries, and tented villages inhabited by Bedouin tribesmen dressed in white robes, checked headdresses and sandals, all tending to their camels while black-clad women shuffle around inconspicuously in the shadows.  Oh, let us not forget the terrorist training-camps where teenage boys practice with their Kalashnikovs between Koran recitals!

Why, then do such misconceptions abound?  Partly because of its history and geography, but equally because of its self-imposed isolation, the desert kingdom remains one of the least understood countries on the planet.

In 1938, oil was discovered in the eastern part of the Arabian Peninsula.  Up to that point, the young country – united under King Abdul-Aziz Ibn Saud just a few years before – had virtually no resources.  This, coupled with a sparse population which had been living the same tribal, nomadic existence for thousands of years, ensured that contact with the outside world had been minimal.

While smaller Gulf States, such as the Trucial States (now UAE) and Bahrain had become part of the great empire building of the 19th century, a great expanse of wilderness to the west – holding little attraction for colonial soldiers of fortune or captains of industry – remained not only untouched but mostly unknown.

This was not the only reason for KSA’s isolation, however.  Ironically, the very factor for which it is best known to a large sector of the world’s population has also been the predominant contributor in ensuring its relative isolation.  Saudi Arabia is, of course, the centre of Islam, the world’s second biggest religion.  Being the birthplace of the Prophet Mohammad, and the location of the two Holy Cities of Makkah and Madinah, it has always had to maintain a delicate balance.

On one hand, the Kingdom must ensure its doors are always open to the millions of pilgrims who visit annually; on the other, it has, perhaps too self-consciously, worked hard to ensure that the hundreds of millions of visitors it has received over the years haven’t diluted what it sees as its religious and cultural purity.

Indeed, it is this dichotomy which may well be at the heart of Saudi society’s internal conflict today.  The Saudis’ innate hospitality, which naturally gives rise to a desire for openness, wrestles with a desire to protect their society from what many of them see as the corrupting influence of secularism and - a somewhat exaggerated view, perhaps – western decadence.

Along with all of this, there have been two other factors which have served to isolate and alienate the Kingdom in the eyes of the western world.

In the last two decades, we witnessed a number of bombing attacks both within KSA and internationally, mostly attributed to Osama Bin Laden and Al Qaeda.  Compounding this has been the shifting sands of the geopolitical power structure, US involvement in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the Middle-East conflict, all of which have directly or indirectly involved, or at least affected, Saudi Arabia.

All of these events have placed the Kingdom in a delicate position: it has worked hard to maintain good relations with the dominant western powers, notably the US, which it regards as an ally, while also stringently trying to avoid alienating the rest of the Muslim and Arab worlds, who are increasingly hostile to the US and its allies.

Last but not least, there is what I believe is a case of plain, simple envy.  KSA is the world’s single largest oil-producer, and like it or not, we need them as much as they need us.  As in any relationship of mutual dependency, tension and resentment are inevitable.  Since the ’73 oil-crisis, we have been acutely aware of how much we need their oil, which prior to then we also needed, but for which we had paid a lot less!

So, then, what is the real Saudi Arabia like?

Certainly, there is an awful lot more than sand, oil installations and women dressed entirely in black shuffling along ten paces behind their men.  These do exist, but they are hardly the sole features by which such an influential country and complex society can be defined. There are, in fact, hardly any terrorists, but there is no shortage of camels!  While there is – inevitably, in the home of Islam – a strong conservative religious ethos, coupled with an ingrained tribal way of thinking, there are also ultra-modern cities full of glass-and-steel office towers, shopping malls with the latest in designer fashion and gourmet foods, and countless fast-food joints, chic coffee shops and satellite TV outlets.

There is also a substantial urban middle-class.  Educated, well-travelled and open to new ideas, they are acutely aware of their country’s shortcomings, but are equally keen to extol its virtues and exploit its potential.  And just like in the west, there is the downside of urban life, such as considerable youth unemployment, a growing drugs-and-crime problem, and serious traffic congestion, problems of which King Abdullah and his government are acutely aware and are trying to address.

However, the trappings of modernization and consumerism by themselves are not what makes Saudi Arabia so unique, or even worthy of a second thought.  Their presence may help to dispel some of the myths, but it does not bestow any credibility or substance as such.

What does serve to give Saudi Arabia its substance is the fact that these icons of the western world manage to exist comfortably in such a deeply traditional society.  It is this which truly makes Saudi Arabia so enigmatic and controversial.

The newcomer to the kingdom will immediately see the malls, the mosques and MacDonald’s.  He will be faced with the Burqah, the burger and the Blackberry, all side by side.  Young men in designer baseball caps sip their latte in the air-conditioned ‘bachelor’ section of Starbucks, while sending SMS texts to their girlfriends in the ‘family section’ next door, girlfriends they met online but whom they may never meet in person unless they marry.  Outside, an ancient farmer looking and dressed like Moses, rattling past in his flatbed truck carrying sheep or watermelons to market, is overtaken by a gleaming Lamborghini.  One would indeed wonder, which is reality and which is illusion?

The truth is evasive.  At different times and in different contexts, each one of the images is real.  It’s their juxtaposition within the same frame that creates such a compelling picture.

Over the coming months, this blog will present pictures of Saudi Arabia intended to entertain, surprise and, hopefully, enlighten.  Most importantly, it is hoped that they will help you, the reader, determine for yourself the reality of Saudi Arabia.

'See tomorrow run by hand in hand with yesterday

Where once the time hung still forever.' [Al Stewart, The World goes to Riyadh]