MOUNTAIN & DESERT

The Desert

There is a lot of desert in Saudi Arabia but it is anything but flat and featureless all over.  It is so in many places of course, and the desert to be seen from the Riyadh-Dammam highway has a particularly grim look.  This is not helped by the abundance of truck repair garages, disused sheds, piles of rusting metal and heaps of old tyres, all of which contrive to give the place the appearance of the set for a remake of Mad Max. 

That is not to say that there is no interesting desert near Riyadh; there is, and the best way to get to see it is to make some local Saudi friends.  Many Saudis, keen to return to their roots, love going out into the desert for picnics and, once you befriend some of them, you are sure to be invited along at some point. They are, in fact, a hospitable people who are flattered when foreigners show a genuine interest in learning something about their country and experiencing their culture. 

Another way to get out there is to join the Hash House Harriers, who organize regular weekend trips in the desert, for walking and running.  http://www.hasher.net/gulfhash2.htm  If physical exertion is not your thing - and in temperatures of 40 degrees or more it is understandable why it might not be - the Riyadh Rovers tend to favour a more vehicle-based approach!  Even if you don’t have your own 4x4, don’t worry.  Plenty of the members do have such vehicles, and are usually glad of some extra company.  Their website is members only, but they have ads posted in most of the compounds.  There is one aspect to both groups with which I strongly disagree: membership is, as a rule, closed to Saudis.  This is an issue with which I will deal in a later blog.  

The eastern part of the country is mostly flat or very low-lying.  About 300 km west of Riyadh, however, a big change is noticeable, and the further west one goes, the more spectacular the desert scenery becomes.  By the time one reaches Taif, Hail or Madinah, some magnificent mountainous terrain can be seen, and this much more faithfully represents the true romantic image of Arabia. 

On the other hand, the classic desert vista of huge rippled sand dunes can best be seen in the Rub Al Khali (Arabic for Empty Quarter) in the southern part of the kingdom.  This is the largest sand desert in the world, with rippling sand dunes - some as high as 200m - stretching 700km across an area between Yemen and the UAE.  Crossing this expanse, where summer temperatures are often in excess of 50⁰C, in a 4x4 convoy is one of the world’s great adventures, but it is a trip which requires serious planning, and should not in any circumstances be undertaken alone, i.e. in a single vehicle.  Typically, Rub Al Khali convoys consist of four or more specially adapted vehicles, with a complement of full camping and desert gear onboard. 

Indeed, any off-road trips in Saudi Arabia should only be attempted in a 4x4, and essential gear would include a compass (even if you have GPS, a manual compass should also be carried), relevant maps, a shovel, sufficient jerry-cans of spare fuel, copious quantities of water (at least four litres per person per day), a few old mats (in case you get bogged down in sand) and, during the summer months especially, a fairly large-sized awning.   This is in addition to the usual camping gear. 

Lots of camels can be seen in the desert, of course; less evident but out there nonetheless are gazelle, desert Oryx, hyenas (quite dangerous to get too close to) and desert foxes.  Hoopoe larks and various eagles can be seen flying in the Hejaz region.   Also to be seen are different kinds of lizard and some very large beetles e.g. scarabs, and felt rather than seen if you are not careful, are scorpions and snakes, especially sand vipers.

All in all, the desert is one of the kingdom’s most compelling attractions.  The vast expanse of emptiness, the deep blue sky, the billion-starred sparkling nights, the exquisite red rock formations of the Hejaz contrasting vividly with the emerald oases, and the rich underworld of wildlife for those who seek it, all combine to create one of the world’s most wildly magnificent environments.  Small wonder that the Saudis, despite their urban trappings, yearn to return at every opportunity to a way of life that has remained unchanged since biblical times.    

The Asir Mountains

This long mountain range which runs for two thirds the length of western Saudi Arabia is a natural attraction well worth visiting for its breath-taking scenery, abundant wildlife, unique village architecture and cool, refreshing climate.  The highest point in the kingdom, Mount Sawdah, lies at the southern end of the chain, near the town of Abha and the Yemen border. 

A drive that I strongly recommend is south along the ridge from Taif (as a starting point) to Al Baha via Misan (three hours without stops).  From there, you can either continue along the high road to Abha (another three hours) or drop down the narrow escarpment road to Numrah, south along the Tihama Plain towards Jizan and then back up the southern escarpment road to Abha.  Along the way expect to see lots of baboons who will happily pose for photos!  Don't get too close though, as they are not always as friendly as they seem. 

East of Abha can be found the pleasant town of Khamis Mushayt, and further east again is the extremely picturesque and unusually green area of Najran, with its regional capital of the same name.  From Najran, you can make the return trip to Riyadh or the Eastern Province, through Wadi Dawassir.  A detour east from there would leave you in Sharourah, on the edge of the Rub Al Khali (see The Desert, above). Unless you like extreme heat and want a very quick suntan, I would not recommend this diversion!

Touring Asir cannot be done in a weekend, but it is an excellent choice for a one- or two-week holiday in-kingdom. 

The Mountain City of Taif & Surrounding Area

This area alone, approx 160km east of Jeddah, has many attractions: Al Hada Nature Reserve, the traditional village of Al Shafa, Rawdaf Park & Zoo, the ancient Okaz Souk and the even more ancient dam (over 2,000 years old) of Saad Samallaghi.  On the way there, coming from Riyadh, are the 'Lost Birqats' (wells) which were built by Queen Zubaida during the 11^th century for pilgrims travelling to Makkah.  The old souk in the centre of Taif is one of the most authentic in Arabia and is full of the sights, sounds and smells of frankincense and oud that one would expect.  For a really authentic atmosphere, this is best visited in the evenings.  Because of the town’s 1800m altitude, Taif’s climate is pleasant most of the year, and indeed freezing temperatures are a distinct possibility for a very short period in the middle of winter.  Don’t bother taking the skis, however!