OLD ARABIA

Saudi Arabia is a country full of history.  The jewel is the ancient Nabatean city of Madain Saleh, but we will also look briefly at three other places worth visiting.

Madain Saleh

This ancient Nabatean city in the Hejaz, in the northwest of Saudi Arabia is a must-see.   Like its sister-city of Petra in Jordan, it consists of tombs with elaborately carved openings hewn into the red sandstone hills.  I love this place, finding it to be full of atmosphere and mystery and offering a level of peace and tranquillity that is rarely found elsewhere.  Think of Petra but hotter, and with virtually no tourists!   To enter the site, an official permit from the Ministry of Antiquities is necessary but this can be easily arranged through the hotels in the nearby town of Al Ula.  A vehicle is also necessary, unless of course you are part of a guided tour arranged through the same hotels.

Very close to the antiquities is Madain Saleh Railway Station, part of the Hejaz Railway that ran from Damascus to Madinah.  Here the old station buildings are being restored and, apparently, there are plans for a tourist hotel here.  There is even an old locomotive, built by Krupps in 1905, sitting in the engine shed.  This is the heart of Lawrence of Arabia country, and wandering around the lush palm groves and the old deserted villages, with the red sandstone hills in the background, one can easily imagine oneself transported back a century to the setting of the movie and the old, pre-oil Arabia.

The town of Al Ula makes for an interesting visit in itself, with its nearby prehistoric rock carvings, its calm serene feel and the extensive oasis just on its outskirts.  There is a drive up the mountain to the north-west of the town, where the views of the whole region are quite breathtaking.  When visiting the area, I particularly recommend the ARAC Hotel on the northern edge of Al Ula.  Getting there from Riyadh, via Qassim and Hail, is a drive of approx eight hours, and so a long weekend is needed for the trip.  From Jeddah, the journey takes about 6-7 hours, via Madinah and Khyeber.

Hail

This ancient city in the north-western part of KSA is well worth a visit.  Until they were ousted by Abdulaziz Al Saud in 1921 and subsumed into the New Saudi State, the dominant Al Rashid family used Hail as the seat from which they ruled the Al Rashid emirate.  The main historical attraction of Hail is the Barzan Palace in the centre of town, but there are also many other sites in the surrounding area, such as the Qishlah Palace.  The rocky mountainous landscape around the city makes for some fascinating trips in themselves.  For accommodation in Hail, we would strongly recommend Basmain Suites on the ring road.  The distance from Riyadh is five hours on an excellent highway.

Al Jawf

The Al Jawf (or Al Jouf) region is centred on a natural oasis in the north-west of the Kingdom, 360km from Hail, less than three hours on the recently-built highway across the Nafud Desert.   The main town, Sakaka has a number of historical attractions and details of sights and tours can easily be obtained at the Al Nusl hotel in the town centre, which is probably the best hotel (and the most expensive) in town, where I had a very pleasant stay in 2008.  This hotel is unique in that it is entirely cooled by use of traditional Arabian cooling towers, where hot air is cooled rapidly as it is naturally drawn down, although the temperature can still be regulated electronically within each guest room.  

An even more interesting visit, however, is the town of Dumat Al Jandal, 45km away from Sakaka.  This town has strong biblical associations, the old city believed to have been founded by Dumah, one of Ishmail's twelve sons.  A visit to the magnificent Marid Fortress, on the outskirts, along with the adjacent old city with its tiny labyrinthine streets and the early Islamic mosque, makes for a memorable day out.  Like Madain Saleh, this is an 8-hour trip by road from the capital, thus necessitating a long weekend.  However, there are regular flights from Riyadh and Jeddah to Al Jawf.

Tayma

This oasis town, situated in the north-west of the kingdom around 400km north of Madinah and 260km south of Tabuk, has significant historical associations, and is even mentioned in the Bible (Jeremiah 25:23).  Egyptian Hieroglyphs from the era of Rameses III have been discovered here, and the Tayma Stele (stone) now in the Louvre was found here in 1883.  Having been originally founded in the 8^th century BCE, Nabonidus of Babylon (father of Balthazar) spent ten years in Tayma in the sixth century BCE. 

Today, there is the “Tayma Museum of Archaeology and Ethnography”, just to the north of the town, and the ruins of the Qasr Al Ablaq Castle to the west.  In the town centre is an ancient well, right in the middle of a modern roundabout in fact!  Nearby, there is a Turkish fort from the 18^th century, although I am unsure of its current condition or situation re access.  In 1997, I managed to get past an old wooden door hanging off its hinges, and spent a most interesting half hour exploring the interior.  Be careful; some of the walkways were crumbling and required considerable care even back then.

Tayma is well worth visiting in combination with Madain Saleh, and is about 2½ - 3 hours’ drive north of the latter, on the Tabuk road.

RED SEA, BLUE WATER

The Coast

The narrow strip of water between the Arabian Peninsula and Africa, known to the world as the Red Sea, is now acknowledged as being one of the world's greatest diving destinations, easily comparable with the Bahamas and the Great Barrier Reef.  With its fantastically coloured coral reefs, its equally kaleidoscopic tropical fish and deserted beaches, this is a wonderful place to learn to snorkel or scuba dive, or just to get away from the world and relax in clear waters that are a perfect temperature most of the year.   Not only is there an abundance of extremely unpopulated, get-away-from-it-all-perfect shoreline, but there are modern resorts where you can organize all kinds of sports and activities such as fishing for blue water-species.  If you want bright lights, with all the attendant urban delights of shopping, fine-dining and being spoilt in a luxury hotel, there’s the kingdom’s second city, Jeddah.

The City of Jeddah

Located more or less halfway along Saudi Arabia’s west coast, and with a population of over two million, Jeddah is a bustling metropolitan centre of enormous shopping malls, some amazing modern architecture, and a very interesting old town - Al Bilad.  Not to mention a pleasant promenade (kournaish) of around 30km long, which attracts thousands of people wanting to enjoy its cafes, green areas and fresh sea air.  This can get rather crowded on weekend evenings, and so the best time to take a stroll along the extensive seafront is on weekday evenings. 

Not far away to the north is Obhur Creek, a favourite destination for those keen on water sports, and further north again is a plethora of private beaches.  On many of these, which cater mainly for expats, the usual Saudi social rules don’t really apply, and so you can wear whatever you wish - within reason, of course!  Swimming, sailing, jet-skiing, diving, snorkelling, and just about any other water sport you can think of, are all available here. 

Because the sea will probably be a factor in planning most trips to Jeddah, the best time to visit is between November and April.  While the temperature is still very pleasant (daytime range of 24-32^oC) during those months, the humidity is lower and the Red Sea coast is a lot more attractive than the Gulf coast, which is quite a bit colder in winter due to its shallow depth. 

80km east of Jeddah is the Holy City of Makkah, known of course to the world as the holiest shrine in Islam, where the Kabah is situated.  Non-Muslims, however, are strictly forbidden from entering the city, and if travelling between Jeddah and Taif/Riyadh, they must take the red-signposted non-Muslim detour.  The question has been often asked: what would happen if a non-Muslim actually wandered into the city?  In theory, he could be arrested, but in practice he would most likely be escorted by the police to the city limits.  Indeed, this would be unlikely to happen in the first place, because there are checkpoints on all the main roads into the city, at which the police ask for ID papers.  Muslim and non-Muslim expats will have different Iqamas (residence permit), so the police will know immediately whether you are a Muslim or not.  If you are on the wrong road, they will politely ask you to turn back.

I wandered by mistake once into the also-forbidden – ‘haraam’ -  city of Madinah, where it is less vigilantly patrolled, and on realising my mistake I asked at a petrol station how to get back out.  A very friendly gentleman pointed the way, and when I apologized, he assured me that because it was obviously a genuine mistake, no-one would be offended.  Irrespective of consequences, non-Muslims should show respect to their Saudi hosts, and make a genuine effort to avoid entering the Holy Cities.

To reach Jeddah from Riyadh or Dammam, there are frequent flights from both cities.  This is the recommended way of getting there unless you have lots of time, as the drive takes nine and twelve hours respectively. 

Yanbu

This coastal city, three hours’ drive north of Jeddah (and much quieter than its large southern neighbour) and boasting crystal clear water, has become, in recent years, a recognized diving centre and beach resort.  It is also renowned for its fishing.  Charter boats operating from the harbour at Yanbu al Sinayah are readily available for diving excursions, and also provide deep-sea access for tropical species such as Grouper, Barracuda, Sailfish, Dorado, Bonita and Yellowfin Tuna. 

When I last visited a few years ago, the best hotels in town were the Radisson SAS and Holiday Inn, both worth visiting for their sumptuous evening buffets even if you are not staying there.  Now, I believe, many new hotels have been built along the seafront, and Yanbu has become one of the kingdom’s biggest resorts.  

There are regular flights from Jeddah and Riyadh to Yanbu, which can also be reached by a nine-hour drive from Riyadh along an excellent highway via Madinah.  When entering the city from the south, do not be put off by the sight of the refinery.  You will soon be past it, and as it is downwind of all the attractions, it will not be a problem.  In any event, the beaches you will want to visit are around 30km further up the coast, past the old town, Yanbu Al Bahr.

Jizan

This coastal city in the extreme south-west of the country, with its tropical climate, enjoys year-round warmth, and indeed, is ranked one of the hottest cities in the world – literally, that is!  While there isn’t very much of interest for tourists within the city itself, it makes for a pleasant detour for those visiting the south of Asir (Abha).  It is also the jumping-off point for Farasan Islands, a group of coral islands 40km to the northwest, where ancient ruins, protected species, spectacular coral reefs and pristine beaches can all be found. 

There are a number of hotels on the main island, Farasan.   Ninety minute access by fast ferry boat is free, and leaves Jizan port twice daily at 07.00 and 15.00.  There are also some private Felukas, which cost around SR300 for private hire and typically accommodate up to six people.

Getting to Jizan is a long drive. The best way is down the coast from Jeddah, and via Wadi Dawassir, Abha and Najran from Riyadh/Eastern Province.  There are, however, regular flights from both Jeddah and Riyadh.  

MOUNTAIN & DESERT

The Desert

There is a lot of desert in Saudi Arabia but it is anything but flat and featureless all over.  It is so in many places of course, and the desert to be seen from the Riyadh-Dammam highway has a particularly grim look.  This is not helped by the abundance of truck repair garages, disused sheds, piles of rusting metal and heaps of old tyres, all of which contrive to give the place the appearance of the set for a remake of Mad Max. 

That is not to say that there is no interesting desert near Riyadh; there is, and the best way to get to see it is to make some local Saudi friends.  Many Saudis, keen to return to their roots, love going out into the desert for picnics and, once you befriend some of them, you are sure to be invited along at some point. They are, in fact, a hospitable people who are flattered when foreigners show a genuine interest in learning something about their country and experiencing their culture. 

Another way to get out there is to join the Hash House Harriers, who organize regular weekend trips in the desert, for walking and running.  http://www.hasher.net/gulfhash2.htm  If physical exertion is not your thing - and in temperatures of 40 degrees or more it is understandable why it might not be - the Riyadh Rovers tend to favour a more vehicle-based approach!  Even if you don’t have your own 4x4, don’t worry.  Plenty of the members do have such vehicles, and are usually glad of some extra company.  Their website is members only, but they have ads posted in most of the compounds.  There is one aspect to both groups with which I strongly disagree: membership is, as a rule, closed to Saudis.  This is an issue with which I will deal in a later blog.  

The eastern part of the country is mostly flat or very low-lying.  About 300 km west of Riyadh, however, a big change is noticeable, and the further west one goes, the more spectacular the desert scenery becomes.  By the time one reaches Taif, Hail or Madinah, some magnificent mountainous terrain can be seen, and this much more faithfully represents the true romantic image of Arabia. 

On the other hand, the classic desert vista of huge rippled sand dunes can best be seen in the Rub Al Khali (Arabic for Empty Quarter) in the southern part of the kingdom.  This is the largest sand desert in the world, with rippling sand dunes - some as high as 200m - stretching 700km across an area between Yemen and the UAE.  Crossing this expanse, where summer temperatures are often in excess of 50⁰C, in a 4x4 convoy is one of the world’s great adventures, but it is a trip which requires serious planning, and should not in any circumstances be undertaken alone, i.e. in a single vehicle.  Typically, Rub Al Khali convoys consist of four or more specially adapted vehicles, with a complement of full camping and desert gear onboard. 

Indeed, any off-road trips in Saudi Arabia should only be attempted in a 4x4, and essential gear would include a compass (even if you have GPS, a manual compass should also be carried), relevant maps, a shovel, sufficient jerry-cans of spare fuel, copious quantities of water (at least four litres per person per day), a few old mats (in case you get bogged down in sand) and, during the summer months especially, a fairly large-sized awning.   This is in addition to the usual camping gear. 

Lots of camels can be seen in the desert, of course; less evident but out there nonetheless are gazelle, desert Oryx, hyenas (quite dangerous to get too close to) and desert foxes.  Hoopoe larks and various eagles can be seen flying in the Hejaz region.   Also to be seen are different kinds of lizard and some very large beetles e.g. scarabs, and felt rather than seen if you are not careful, are scorpions and snakes, especially sand vipers.

All in all, the desert is one of the kingdom’s most compelling attractions.  The vast expanse of emptiness, the deep blue sky, the billion-starred sparkling nights, the exquisite red rock formations of the Hejaz contrasting vividly with the emerald oases, and the rich underworld of wildlife for those who seek it, all combine to create one of the world’s most wildly magnificent environments.  Small wonder that the Saudis, despite their urban trappings, yearn to return at every opportunity to a way of life that has remained unchanged since biblical times.    

The Asir Mountains

This long mountain range which runs for two thirds the length of western Saudi Arabia is a natural attraction well worth visiting for its breath-taking scenery, abundant wildlife, unique village architecture and cool, refreshing climate.  The highest point in the kingdom, Mount Sawdah, lies at the southern end of the chain, near the town of Abha and the Yemen border. 

A drive that I strongly recommend is south along the ridge from Taif (as a starting point) to Al Baha via Misan (three hours without stops).  From there, you can either continue along the high road to Abha (another three hours) or drop down the narrow escarpment road to Numrah, south along the Tihama Plain towards Jizan and then back up the southern escarpment road to Abha.  Along the way expect to see lots of baboons who will happily pose for photos!  Don't get too close though, as they are not always as friendly as they seem. 

East of Abha can be found the pleasant town of Khamis Mushayt, and further east again is the extremely picturesque and unusually green area of Najran, with its regional capital of the same name.  From Najran, you can make the return trip to Riyadh or the Eastern Province, through Wadi Dawassir.  A detour east from there would leave you in Sharourah, on the edge of the Rub Al Khali (see The Desert, above). Unless you like extreme heat and want a very quick suntan, I would not recommend this diversion!

Touring Asir cannot be done in a weekend, but it is an excellent choice for a one- or two-week holiday in-kingdom. 

The Mountain City of Taif & Surrounding Area

This area alone, approx 160km east of Jeddah, has many attractions: Al Hada Nature Reserve, the traditional village of Al Shafa, Rawdaf Park & Zoo, the ancient Okaz Souk and the even more ancient dam (over 2,000 years old) of Saad Samallaghi.  On the way there, coming from Riyadh, are the 'Lost Birqats' (wells) which were built by Queen Zubaida during the 11^th century for pilgrims travelling to Makkah.  The old souk in the centre of Taif is one of the most authentic in Arabia and is full of the sights, sounds and smells of frankincense and oud that one would expect.  For a really authentic atmosphere, this is best visited in the evenings.  Because of the town’s 1800m altitude, Taif’s climate is pleasant most of the year, and indeed freezing temperatures are a distinct possibility for a very short period in the middle of winter.  Don’t bother taking the skis, however!

ARABIAN DELIGHTS

Saudi Arabia is one of the most misunderstood countries on Earth (see my previous posting).  Not only is very little known outside the country, but even within, many foreigners living there have major misconceptions.  One of these is that there are virtually no tourist attractions, whether natural, historical or man-made, in the kingdom. 

Such expats - some of whom have been there for years or even decades - complain about there being nothing to do, alluding at length to the endless flat desert outside of their compounds, broken only by an occasional oil-well or Bedouin encampment.  It is almost like pre-Columbine Europe’s perception of the ocean: empty and endless, and if you crossed it far enough you would eventually fall off the edge.  

The perception of Saudi Arabia as a place of interminable flatness, with nothing of interest to see or do, is about as valid as the flat-earth view, and one of the great tragedies of expat life in KSA is that so many people spend years in the kingdom complaining about how bored they are, without the slightest awareness its many attractions. 

There are a couple of reasons for this misconception.  Firstly, most expats, particularly western expats, tend to be concentrated in the eastern part of the country where the desert is indeed flat and featureless for many hundreds of kilometres, and it is a fact that most of the really interesting places tend to be in the western part of the country. 

Then, there is the ‘boredom culture’, a sort of inherited assumption that because it is Saudi Arabia (still seen by many as a ‘hardship posting’), there just cannot be anything interesting to see or do!  There is even a lack of awareness among many Saudis themselves of the wealth of attractions in their own country.  I recall, for example, taking a couple of friends of ours from Riyadh to Madain Saleh.  Mohammad, who is Saudi, was amazed at the historical, archaeological and natural wonders to be seen there, and exclaimed, “Wow, are we still in Saudi Arabia?  I never realized this beauty was here in my own country”.  

The list of attractions that will appear over the next few postings, is neither detailed nor exhaustive, but should give you a few places to think about visiting for starters.  All the places mentioned can easily be Googled, with a number of websites between them providing all the information you could want.

The Burqah, the Burger & the Blackberry

Today’s first-time visitor to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia – or KSA, as it is often known – could be completely forgiven for being confused at the kaleidoscopic canvas that greets him.  He will see a profusion of white mosques topped with green minarets, intermingled with glass malls crowned with the familiar orange M’s of fast-food.  What is real?  What is fantasy?

The lucky visitor, at least, will get the opportunity to judge for himself.  Most folks do not. Saudi Arabia is still one of the most closed-off, secretive countries in the world, and until the oil boom, the country was virtually shut to outsiders (apart from the closely monitored pilgrims to the Holy Cities).  Since then, the hordes of expatriate workers going there to partake in the oil bonanza have still had to go through consular hoops just to obtain a work- or business-visa.

Tourist visas are a new phenomenon.  In 2002, the country passed a law allowing non-Muslim tourists to get visas to travel in official groups, and subject to strict conditions such as being accompanied by a tour-guide at all times.

This writer has been extremely fortunate to have spent a number of years working and living in this fascinating place, with all its idiosyncrasies and ambiguities.

Even in this age of instant global communications and technology, Saudi Arabia is a land which remains strange and aloof to the western world.   It doesn’t exactly feature on lifestyle channels where people talk about food, fashion, vacations and homes in the sun. Sure, we hear about it from time on time on lofty news channels, but usually through a report on some terrorist atrocity, or perhaps another increase in oil prices.  Occasionally, a reporter goes there to do a documentary on lack of female equality.  In other words, we rarely hear anything good!

And then, of course, we have our own images:  vast expanses of baking sand punctuated by ugly refineries, and tented villages inhabited by Bedouin tribesmen dressed in white robes, checked headdresses and sandals, all tending to their camels while black-clad women shuffle around inconspicuously in the shadows.  Oh, let us not forget the terrorist training-camps where teenage boys practice with their Kalashnikovs between Koran recitals!

Why, then do such misconceptions abound?  Partly because of its history and geography, but equally because of its self-imposed isolation, the desert kingdom remains one of the least understood countries on the planet.

In 1938, oil was discovered in the eastern part of the Arabian Peninsula.  Up to that point, the young country – united under King Abdul-Aziz Ibn Saud just a few years before – had virtually no resources.  This, coupled with a sparse population which had been living the same tribal, nomadic existence for thousands of years, ensured that contact with the outside world had been minimal.

While smaller Gulf States, such as the Trucial States (now UAE) and Bahrain had become part of the great empire building of the 19th century, a great expanse of wilderness to the west – holding little attraction for colonial soldiers of fortune or captains of industry – remained not only untouched but mostly unknown.

This was not the only reason for KSA’s isolation, however.  Ironically, the very factor for which it is best known to a large sector of the world’s population has also been the predominant contributor in ensuring its relative isolation.  Saudi Arabia is, of course, the centre of Islam, the world’s second biggest religion.  Being the birthplace of the Prophet Mohammad, and the location of the two Holy Cities of Makkah and Madinah, it has always had to maintain a delicate balance.

On one hand, the Kingdom must ensure its doors are always open to the millions of pilgrims who visit annually; on the other, it has, perhaps too self-consciously, worked hard to ensure that the hundreds of millions of visitors it has received over the years haven’t diluted what it sees as its religious and cultural purity.

Indeed, it is this dichotomy which may well be at the heart of Saudi society’s internal conflict today.  The Saudis’ innate hospitality, which naturally gives rise to a desire for openness, wrestles with a desire to protect their society from what many of them see as the corrupting influence of secularism and - a somewhat exaggerated view, perhaps – western decadence.

Along with all of this, there have been two other factors which have served to isolate and alienate the Kingdom in the eyes of the western world.

In the last two decades, we witnessed a number of bombing attacks both within KSA and internationally, mostly attributed to Osama Bin Laden and Al Qaeda.  Compounding this has been the shifting sands of the geopolitical power structure, US involvement in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the Middle-East conflict, all of which have directly or indirectly involved, or at least affected, Saudi Arabia.

All of these events have placed the Kingdom in a delicate position: it has worked hard to maintain good relations with the dominant western powers, notably the US, which it regards as an ally, while also stringently trying to avoid alienating the rest of the Muslim and Arab worlds, who are increasingly hostile to the US and its allies.

Last but not least, there is what I believe is a case of plain, simple envy.  KSA is the world’s single largest oil-producer, and like it or not, we need them as much as they need us.  As in any relationship of mutual dependency, tension and resentment are inevitable.  Since the ’73 oil-crisis, we have been acutely aware of how much we need their oil, which prior to then we also needed, but for which we had paid a lot less!

So, then, what is the real Saudi Arabia like?

Certainly, there is an awful lot more than sand, oil installations and women dressed entirely in black shuffling along ten paces behind their men.  These do exist, but they are hardly the sole features by which such an influential country and complex society can be defined. There are, in fact, hardly any terrorists, but there is no shortage of camels!  While there is – inevitably, in the home of Islam – a strong conservative religious ethos, coupled with an ingrained tribal way of thinking, there are also ultra-modern cities full of glass-and-steel office towers, shopping malls with the latest in designer fashion and gourmet foods, and countless fast-food joints, chic coffee shops and satellite TV outlets.

There is also a substantial urban middle-class.  Educated, well-travelled and open to new ideas, they are acutely aware of their country’s shortcomings, but are equally keen to extol its virtues and exploit its potential.  And just like in the west, there is the downside of urban life, such as considerable youth unemployment, a growing drugs-and-crime problem, and serious traffic congestion, problems of which King Abdullah and his government are acutely aware and are trying to address.

However, the trappings of modernization and consumerism by themselves are not what makes Saudi Arabia so unique, or even worthy of a second thought.  Their presence may help to dispel some of the myths, but it does not bestow any credibility or substance as such.

What does serve to give Saudi Arabia its substance is the fact that these icons of the western world manage to exist comfortably in such a deeply traditional society.  It is this which truly makes Saudi Arabia so enigmatic and controversial.

The newcomer to the kingdom will immediately see the malls, the mosques and MacDonald’s.  He will be faced with the Burqah, the burger and the Blackberry, all side by side.  Young men in designer baseball caps sip their latte in the air-conditioned ‘bachelor’ section of Starbucks, while sending SMS texts to their girlfriends in the ‘family section’ next door, girlfriends they met online but whom they may never meet in person unless they marry.  Outside, an ancient farmer looking and dressed like Moses, rattling past in his flatbed truck carrying sheep or watermelons to market, is overtaken by a gleaming Lamborghini.  One would indeed wonder, which is reality and which is illusion?

The truth is evasive.  At different times and in different contexts, each one of the images is real.  It’s their juxtaposition within the same frame that creates such a compelling picture.

Over the coming months, this blog will present pictures of Saudi Arabia intended to entertain, surprise and, hopefully, enlighten.  Most importantly, it is hoped that they will help you, the reader, determine for yourself the reality of Saudi Arabia.

'See tomorrow run by hand in hand with yesterday

Where once the time hung still forever.' [Al Stewart, The World goes to Riyadh]